Take everything out of the cabinets. Photograph each cabinet and drawer before removing anything. This makes reassembly easier.

Number each door and drawer with a small piece of tape on the inside edge. Match the same number on the cabinet frame. Remove hinges, knobs, and pulls. Place all hardware in labeled bags. If you are replacing hardware with different sized pulls, you will need to fill old holes (covered in Step 4).

This is the most skipped step, and the reason most DIY paint jobs fail. Kitchen cabinets are covered in grease, even if they do not look dirty. Mix TSP (trisodium phosphate) or a kitchen degreaser like Krud Kutter with warm water. Wipe down every surface. Rinse with clean water. Let dry completely (at least 4 hours).

Fill old hardware holes with wood filler if you are moving handles. Fill dents, scratches, and gouges with the same filler. Let dry per the product instructions, then sand smooth with 220 grit sandpaper.

You do not need to strip cabinets down to bare wood. A light sanding with 220 grit creates the tooth that primer needs to grip. Sand every surface you plan to paint. Do not press hard, just enough to scuff the existing finish. Wipe everything down with a tack cloth after sanding to remove dust.

Tape off walls, counters, floors, and inside cabinet edges where you do not want paint. Hang plastic sheeting to contain dust and overspray. If you are using a sprayer, this step is critical. Spray drifts everywhere.

Apply one even coat of bonding primer to all surfaces. Use a 2 inch angled brush for corners and detail, then a 4 inch foam roller for flat surfaces. Roll in long, even strokes. Let primer dry per the manufacturer’s instructions, usually 1 to 2 hours. Sand lightly with 220 grit, wipe with a tack cloth, and you are ready to paint.

Use a quality cabinet paint, not regular wall paint. Wall paint stays soft and shows wear quickly. Cabinet paint cures to a hard, durable finish. Top recommendations: Benjamin Moore Advance (oil based feel, water cleanup), Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel, or PPG Breakthrough. Apply with a brush for corners and edges, then a foam roller for flat panels. Roll in one direction, then go back over with light pressure to smooth roller marks. Let dry per the product instructions, usually 6 to 16 hours. Resist the urge to recoat too soon. The first coat needs to fully cure.

Lightly sand the first coat with 320 grit sandpaper. This removes any imperfections and helps the second coat bond. Wipe with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat the same way as the first.

For maximum durability and even color, apply a third coat after the second has fully dried and been lightly sanded. This step takes cabinets from decent DIY to looks professional.

Cabinets are dry to the touch in 24 hours but not fully cured for 30 days. During this time, avoid stacking heavy items, do not slam doors, and be gentle with cleaning. The paint hardens completely over weeks. Treat them carefully during this period.

Reattach hinges, hardware, doors, and drawers. Use the photos from Step 1 if you are unsure where anything goes.